Thanksgiving Tips

Crab-stuffed Deviled Eggs
Courtesy of Whole Foods Market

The addition of crab meat takes the traditional deviled egg up a notch. The filling is also tasty on crackers or toast. Makes 24 deviled eggs.

• 1 dozen eggs
• 1/2 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning, more to taste
• 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons cold water
• 8 ounces cooked crab meat
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Paprika (optional)

Place eggs in a pot large enough to hold them all in a single layer. Cover by 3 inches of cold water and place on the stovetop over high heat. Once the water starts simmering briskly, reduce heat to medium high and cook for 12 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer eggs to a bowl of ice-cold water. Let cool for 5 or 10 minutes, then peel. Slice eggs lengthwise. Remove yolks and place them in a medium bowl. Arrange egg white halves on a rimmed baking sheet.

To prepare the filling, add Old Bay, mayonnaise, mustard and water to yolks and mash. Fold in crab meat. Taste and adjust seasoning. Use two small spoons to scoop filling into egg white halves. Sprinkle with paprika or Old Bay and serve.

Nutrition

Per serving (2 deviled egg halves/76g-wt.): 110 calories (70 from fat), 7g total fat, 2g saturated fat, 10g protein, 1g total carbohydrate (0g dietary fiber, 0g sugar), 230mg cholesterol, 200mg sodium

Gratin Dauphinois
Serves 6 to 8

At first glance, Anne Willan, the proper, Cambridge-educated grande dame of cuisine, would seem to have little in common with a Mafia don. Looks can be deceiving: those “in the know” are well aware of the “La Varenne Way.” The La Varenne Way of recipe testing has evolved with Anne’s experience of more than thirty-five years as a teacher, cookbook author, and food writer. As the director of École de Cuisine La Varenne, the cooking school that she founded in Burgundy in 1975, with the encouragement and support of the grand doyenne herself, Julia Child, Willan has shaped and influenced countless professional and amateur cooks all over the world, myself included. La Varenne alumni are called, tongue-in-cheek, the “La Varenne Mafia.” No secret society, the list of capos reads like a Who’s Who of the culinary world. The invaluable training I acquired in France working with Anne opened countless doors and a world of possibilities. Anne is one of the hardest-working individuals I know, and her drive for perfection has long been an inspiration.

This rich gratin, typical of simple country French cooking, was inspired by a version I learned while at La Varenne.

• 4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into lardons (see page 179)
• 11/2 to 2 pounds russet potatoes
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 11/2 cups whole milk, plus more if needed
• 1 cup heavy cream, plus more if needed
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 cup grated Gruyère cheese (about 2 ounces)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a plate with paper towels. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking sheet, parchment paper, or aluminum foil to protect the baking sheet from spills and make for easy cleanup.

Heat a skillet over medium heat and cook the bacon until brown and crispy, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the bacon to the prepared plate, reserving the rendered fat. Brush an ovenproof gratin dish with some of the rendered bacon fat. Save the remaining fat for another use or discard.

Peel the potatoes and, preferably using a mandoline, slice them 1/8 inch thick. Or, using a chef’s knife, carefully slice the potatoes thinly and evenly.

Arrange the potatoes in the dish in overlapping layers, seasoning with the reserved bacon, thyme, garlic, and salt and pepper as you go. Place the gratin on the prepared baking sheet. Combine the milk, heavy cream, and nutmeg in a medium heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Pour over the gratin. Sprinkle the cheese over the top.

Bake until the potatoes are tender and deep golden brown, and the edges are bubbling, about 1 hour. (If the gratin starts to brown too deeply, cover with aluminum foil.) Let cool slightly, about 10 minutes, before serving.

Bay Roasted Potatoes
Serves 4 to 6

• 8 medium red-skinned or Idaho potatoes
• 16 to 20 bay leaves, preferably fresh
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Sea salt, for finishing

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Using a sharp knife, thinly slice each potato, stopping each cut 1/4 inch from the bottom, so the potato is sliced, but still intact. Insert 1 to 2 bay leaves into each potato.

Place the potatoes in a large roasting pan. Drizzle over the oil and toss the potatoes to coat. Season the potatoes with coarse salt and pepper.

Roast the potatoes until tender when pierced with the point of a knife, about 1 hour. Season with sea salt and additional freshly ground black pepper. Serve hot.

AVOCADO HOLIDAY DIP … THREE WAYS

• 1 fully ripened Mexican hass avocado
• 1 tablespoon chopped green onion (scallion)
• 1 teaspoon lime juice
• 1/4 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• Hot sauce to taste

Cut avocado in half lengthwise around the pit; twist to separate the halves. Strike the pit with the blade of a sharp knife, and remove pit. Cut the flesh into cubes; using a large spoon, scoop flesh out of skin into medium bowl. Gently toss with green onion, lime juice, garlic, salt and pepper being careful not to mash avocado. YIELD: About 1 cup

Nutrition information per 2 tablespoons: 38 cal., 0 g pro., 2 g carb., 4 g total fat (0 g saturated), 1 g dietary fiber

For TEXAS AVOCADO DIP: In a small bowl combine one-half of the AVOCADO DIP with 2 tablespoons shredded pepper Jack cheese, 2 teaspoons each chopped sun-dried tomato and finely diced jalapeño. Gently fold in remaining AVOCADO DIP, keeping avocado chunky; garnish with additional diced avocado and thin slices of jalapeño, if desired. YIELD: About 1 cup

Nutrition information per 2 tablespoons: 46 cal., 1 g pro., 2 g carb., 4 g total fat (1 g saturated), 1 g dietary fiber

For AVOCADO CRAB DIP: In a small bowl combine one-half of the AVOCADO DIP with 1 can (6 ounces) well-drained and flaked crabmeat, 1/3 cup softened cream cheese, and 2 tablespoons each minced celery and chopped fresh chives. Gently fold in remaining AVOCADO DIP MEXICANO, keeping avocado chunky. Garnish with additional diced avocado and chives, if desired. YIELD: About 1 1/2 cups

Nutrition information per 2 tablespoons: 60 cal., 3 g pro., 1 g carb., 5 g total fat (2 g saturated), 1 g dietary fiber

For AVOCADO SPINACH DIP: In a small bowl combine 1 package (10 ounces) frozen, thawed and drained chopped spinach with 1/2 cup sour cream, 3 tablespoons minced onion, 2 tablespoon chopped fresh dill, 1/2 teaspoon salt and dash ground red pepper. Gently fold in AVOCADO DIP MEXICANO, keeping avocado chunky. Garnish with avocado slices and dill sprig, if desired. YIELD: About 1 3/4 cups

Nutrition information per 2 tablespoons: 42 cal., 1 g pro., 2 g carb., 4 g total fat (1 g saturated), 1 g dietary fiber